Our adventures in a mobile home
Posts tagged nature
Wave surfing by kayak
Jul 9th
We wanted to get out onto the water instead of being under it the whole time so decided to rent a kayak (€40 / half day) from Montgo in L’escala. The vendor warned us that our outward journey could be a bit rough, but followed with the encouraging idea that the homeward bound stretch would be easy.
Out in the ocean proper we discovered some rather large waves for our rather small kayak and both Odie and I had an attack of nerves. I insisted that David paddle us back towards the shore but he was adamant that it would be easier to drift back towards the bay if we were further out. An argument ensued and he was finally convinced to head towards shore after I let out a small (to my mind) shriek. David enjoyed surfing the waves with the kayak which I now have to admit may have helped the journey home.
Accidental discoveries
Jul 8th
Book ahead if you want to visit Iles Medes for snorkeling in peak season by boat trip . We missed out as not a seat was to be had. Luckily we found a quiet dirt road along the land portion of the nature reserve and, after a bumpy drive and walk down some steep cliffs, found some excellent snorkeling opportunities instead. The best locations are often discovered by accident!
Swimmingly
Jul 7th
We snaked along the coastal road to L’estartit, a typical beachside resort with the exception of the Iles Medes (a marine park and nature reserve). We looked at snorkel trips by boat but decided that, as the island was only about a kilometre offshore, we would try to swim it. It seemed simple enough with the help of flippers to power us along. About a third of the way across I heard the sound of an engine and popped my head above the water to see a couple of boats in our vicinity. The skippers were gesturing frantically at us and I stopped to tread water. David was ploughing on obliviously so I started yelling. Finally he came to a stop and we got the idea that swimmers were not welcome on what now appeared to be a regularly frequented boat path. We decided to give up on our swimming adventure and snorkeled the area around the marina which proved to be good too.
We free-camped that night in a beachside car park only to be woken up by some other campervanners who arrived at 3 am. We don’t mind late arrivals, but cooking dinner and playing fetch with the dog at that hour is a bit offsides. Many coffees were needed the next morning to get going!
Snorkels at the ready
Jul 6th
The coastline around Begur and Tamiru consists of beaches with azure blue, clear water, grey pebbles and cliffs tumbling into coves ready made for snorkeling. We snorkeled for hours watching shoals of fish in varying sizes swim amongst the coral. The Mediterranean water had seemed very warm up until now, but after an hour or so I really felt the cold and had to retreat to the warmth of the black sandy beach. What a contrast in temperature!
We checked into an ACSI campsite, it was full of Dutchies which made the semi-final football match very rowdy. On checking out the next day we found out it cost a horrendous €47/night and that didn’t include Odie (they actually didn’t allow dogs on site but we didn’t know). Another lesson learnt; always ask for the price before booking in, especially at peak season!
Roadside views
Jul 5th
Our first night in a tolerated Spanish free camping spot was at a beachside parking lot in Saint Carles de La Rapita. It is clearly a bit of a party town as it was not quiet until at least 2am. Teenagers drift around the parking lot in cheap cars equipped with expensive stereos which are somehow incapable of playing more than one tune over and over. The beach here is artificial and you have to walk a good 50m out to sea just to get your knees wet.
On the way out we drove through the nearby natural park; a good place to view flamingos. None were to be seen by us, but the area does have beautiful little houses with lovely gardens sitting amongst the rice paddies. The locals plant flowers along the edges of the canals, adding bright splashes of colour to an otherwise very green landscape.
Today we saw our first roadside prostitute – a bleached blond wearing only her underwear; well bottoms anyway. We have since seen many of them in the Barcelona area where the population is more dense. They advertise their wares by erecting (haha) bright coloured umbrellas like domed billboards. They must be tolerated by the local Policia as they couldn’t stand out more without waving a big flag signed “get it here”.
After driving in squircles to circumnavigate Barcelona (and a massive accident on the motorway) we took a rugged dirt road up to a lovely rustic campsite at the peak of one of the Montseny mountains. It is located on a farm. Hardly anyone else was on-site and we had wonderful, quiet views of wooded hills. On arrival the owner questioned our origin and when it was discovered we had British passports the word was passed around the bar, as if some rare species of animal had been spotted far from its normal habitat.
Snaking Walks
Jun 29th
The view from the top of our walk, click for a full size version
We awoke to the wonderful view and continued our fight from the previous night with the gas for the fridge. After dismantling half the van we worked out that the pilot light was dirty. A good clean later means we can now free camp without worrying that all our supplies will go off. Thank goodness it was not an issue with the gas pipes.
We wanted to make the most of the Sierra Nevada so turned back along the bumpy road and found a hill that looked like it needed to be climbed. I forgot the water bottle in the van so our 3 hour journey up and up and up was a thirsty one. We were rewarded with almost the same view we had from our freecamping site. Turns out not so much sweat is needed only diesel is required. On the way down my worst fears were realised, well almost worst as I nearly stood on a snake hiding in some pine needles. It slithered off once my blood curdling scream awoke it from its slumber.
Rocks and stars
Jun 28th
The Alpujarra valleys have been home to some popular English writers, I had read ‘Driving over Lemons’ and wanted to visit the area that Chris Stewart calls home. The scenery in these hills is diverse. To the East there are wooded hills and rushing rivers, to the the West endless vistas of sky and rock. The weather was hot and as David was tired we ended up driving through most of the
valleys on a very scenic mountainous road. Numerous white villages stack themselves up on hillsides to provide a contrast to the roughly hewn, rocky terrain. We had a welcome break in Trevelez, the home of Serrano ham and had to buy some samples to try out. As usual
in Spain the shops are littered with pigs legs hanging from the ceiling by their the trotters’ for maximum visual effect.
That night we found the most magical free camping spot. After a dicey journey along a bumpy pass in the Sierra Nevada we came upon an old mountain road that was clearly not used. The large number of rocks littering the way indicated we wouldn’t be bothered by cars but we were sure to park away from anything that looked too precarious. The view overlooked rolling hills and down on to an almost 180 degree vista of grass covered plains. As night fell the stars came out above and below the huge wind farm started to twinkle in competition with the stars.
Los Picos
Jun 2nd
I thought we should explore the Picos De Europa on foot. David didn’t realise I meant a 7 hour hike along mountain paths. Huge granite monoliths with their tops covered in cloud drop down to a deep gorge with a sparkling blue river, it is inspiring.
On the way to Cain we dawdled taking photographs and watching Odie totter along the edge of the path sans any barriers like they would have in England. Along the way we met some curious mountain goats who posed nicely for some photos. After a quick lunch in Cain and discovering that the only way back was under our own steam we set off and very kindly the sun decided to come out. David fearing for the worst resorted to using Odie’s travel dog bowl as a hat to prevent sunstroke.
We eventually made it back to the van (all in one piece) and compared our battle scars. David will be checking up on me next time I suggest we go for a little wander. La Rueta De Cares is the most walked path in Spain, they say in August it gets so busy it is comparable to walking along Oxford Street. We recommend dealing with the crowds for some delicious views.
Bordeaux wines and tantrums
May 28th
Another long day of driving, about 6 hours this time took us to South of Bordeaux alongside a wonderful Lake and bordered by Europe’s oldest manmade forest.
The Aire has a charge of EUR7 per night but well worth it as it borders Le Lac. We unhooked our bikes and set off for the local supermarket to test out some Bordeaux wine with our supper. Halfway there I was sure something was wrong with my front tyre, three quarters of the way there I was certain and when I stopped and discovered a massive bulge where it shouldn’t be I threw a hissy fit and sent David off by himself. Once wine was poured and dinner made I was a much happier girly.